Lamb Loin Chops with Olive & Shallot Tapenade and Chive Oil

This time of year, when the weather shifts back and forth from near balmy to frosty, it can be challenging to create a seasonal menu. Holiday festivities are long gone and the winter chill seems to linger on forever ... the luscious roasted squash and slow-simmered soups that you found soothing and heart-warming in February have lost their appeal as you long for foods that are fresh and lively. Unfortunately, here in the Northwest, we have awhile to wait before we see the arrival of the first of the spring harvests … baby artichokes, tender leeks and local asparagus.

While it might seem a bit early to bring out the grill after its winter respite, it’s the perfect answer to these late-winter culinary doldrums. Turning from the oven to the grill for special occasion dinners is an ideal solution for early spring cooking. Meats prepared on the grill are every bit as rich and comforting on chilly nights as if you’d roasted them, but they have a hint of that toasty, smoky flavor that promises warmer days to come. This recipe featuring succulent lamb loin chops grilled over hardwood is a perfect example.

This recipe looks more complicated than it is. The simple ingredients come together quickly and easily to create a truly memorable dish. The vibrantly colored chive oil makes a striking presentation and the lively flavor is a beautiful complement to the tapenade. Serve with creamy polenta with Parmigiano Regianno. A round, supple, fruity Syrah is an excellent pairing.

Serves 4

8 6-ounce lamb loin chops, 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick

8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided

1/4 cup minced garlic, divided (about 8 to 10 cloves)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

3/4 teaspoon salt, divided

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided

1 cup mixed brined olives (kalamata, niçoise or picholine)

1/4 cup chopped fresh chives

Cheese cloth

2 large shallots, halved through the root end and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

Oregano or thyme sprigs for garnishing

Trim the lamb loin chops of excess fat, leaving a little on. Combine 2 tablespoons of the olive oil with 2 tablespoons of the garlic, the oregano, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper in a small bowl. Rub the mixtures over the lamb chops and chill, covered, for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, soak olives in cold water for 30 minutes. Drain and let rest another 30 minutes. Drain, pit and chop olives. Meanwhile, bring 2 cups of water to a boil and prepare an ice bath. Place chives in a strainer and plunge strainer into the boiling water, keeping chives contained in the strainer so they can be easily and quickly removed from the water once blanched, after no more than 20 seconds. Submerge chives immediately in the ice bath. Once cool, drain until mostly dry.

Place chives and 1/4 cup of the remaining olive oil in a blender and process until the chives are fully incorporated into the oil. Strain through cheese cloth into a small bowl or container, pressing with the back of a spoon as necessary to release as much of the oil as possible. (Tip: Straining the oil into a plastic squeeze bottle with a small tip will make it easier to drizzle onto the plates decoratively.)

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat and sauté shallots just until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add remaining garlic, thyme and olives and sauté another 3 to 4 minutes, until hot throughout. Season to taste with remaining salt and pepper. Remove from heat, cover and keep warm.

Prepare your grill for direct grilling over high heat. Preferably, use a charcoal grill (such as a kettle) with real hardwood charcoal. Of course, a gas grill would work as well, but won’t lend quite the same depth of flavor.

Clean and oil the hot grate and grill the loin chops for about 4 to 8 minutes per side, or until cooked to the desired degree of doneness (145˚F on an instant-read thermometer for medium rare). Turn chops 90˚ with tongs (not a fork, let you release succulent juices) after 2 minutes to create crosshatch grill marks and be sure to grill the edges of the chops for 1 to 2 minutes for an attractive presentation. Serve immediately on individual plates garnished with the tapenade. Drizzle the chive oil around the plate for a striking presentation and garnish with oregano or thyme sprigs.